“Territories of
Practice” – “Textile Innovation”
This year I have taken
the elective course “Territories of Practice”. I have decided for the textile innovation
course with our tutor Ros Hibbert.
The course consists of
four lectures. The first week was an
introduction to the world of textiles. After this lecture, I gained an initial understanding
about what textile is and how textiles produded are. I have known about the
major types of textiles used in the fashion industry currently. These are cotton,
silk, flax, wool, luxury hair fabric, polyester and polyamide.
In the second lecture we
extended our knowledge about the textiles beyond the traditional ones. Non-traditional
textiles include Bast Fibres, Hemp, Leaf Fibres, Seed Hair Fibres, Peat,
Alginate, Metal Fibres, Paper, Man-made Synthetic Polymers, Bio-fibres and
Nano-technology. Bast fibres have been traditionally obtained from agriculture.
In the third lecture we
discussed new properties and functions of today’s textiles. Technology has
advanced greatly in our times and so does the textiles technology. Today’s
textiles could have protective properties such as UV protection, fire and spark
resistance, antistatic and electromagnetic protection etc. They could have signalling properties such as
reflective properties, chromatic and optical properties. Well-being properties
are also very important especially in the area of sports clothing. Desired
properties include Easy-care, Comfort and Ease, Aromatic Agents, Antibacterial
Properties, Anti-allergenic Properties, Health and Cosmetic Benefits,
Biomimetics.
In the last lecture we
discussed about some latest developments in the realm of textiles. These are
smart and interactive textiles. One example in this area is the scent dress
constructed by Dr. Jenny Tillotson. It was to mimic the body’s circulation
system. Interactive textiles have been used here to emit a selection of scents
which depends on your mood. Another work
is the bubble mood –sensing dress designed from Philips. This dress is capable
of glowing with lighting effects and blowing with bubbles in response to the
wearer’s emotional state. Emotion such as stress, fear or happiness can cause
the dress to change its colour. These
dresses are now experimental and are not available on the markets. But I can
envision them to be used by us in our daily lives in the near future.
During this course we
are required to write our own blog. The blog shall record the process of the “Textile innovation”
lecture, what we learned and what we thought. In my blog I included the notes of each
lecture and recorded what I have learnt in the course and out of class. From the
whole lecture, I'm mostly impressed of the interaction textile.
For my presentation I
am going to talk about silk. I have researched the manufacturing of silk
fabrics, the use of silk, and its new function especially in the medical area.
I found that this
course quite useful. It improves my understanding of textiles, and will be very
valuable for my future projects. This is because during this course I learned
about a lot of new potentially useful materials and their new functions. I
cannot wait to practice them in my next project.
Sunday 13 January 2013
Sunday 6 January 2013
Interactive Breathing Dress
In today’s noisy, high-stress world, many of us sit, stand, sleep, speak, act, and move in ways that undermine our breathing and our physical, emotional, and spiritual health. Our breath not only brings needed oxygen to the physical body, but it can also bring, when we are conscious of it, the finer energies needed to help nourish our higher bodies - the subtle body, causal body, and so on. Whatever we may believe about our soul and spirit, our breath, and how we breathe, is intimately connected with all aspects of our being. Modern people’s lifestyles and thinking habits have made most people’s breathing shallow, resulting in disconnection with the body and failure to supply enough oxygen to the brain and body cells, which is not conducive to long-term physical and mental health. “Breathing Dress” – a design concept based on “breath” is to make the wearer concerned about his current breath, pay attention to the issue of how to breathe in order to have more energy, and then create subtle interplay with Interactive Fashion (IF) through his own breath. As IF based on “breath” can present the breathing process via visual effects, it can help to promote and perform effective breathing exercises. Another design concept is to identify the basic emotional state of a wearer through breath rate and waveform, namely positive emotion and negative emotion. The wearer can change IF status display by adjusting his breathing. Based on the study of physiological signal parameters and emotional recognition, “Breathing Dress”: based on “breath” applies techniques in the detection system for respiration to conduct overall system design so as to sense the real-time breathing process and identify the emotional state. Dress form was used in this creation. Combinations of external material shape and internal LED light color changes were used to reflect the effects of interaction, to convey technology performance and preserve the beauty of fashion itself at the same time. The inspiration of IF interactive design came from the sense of rhyme of breathing itself and rolling rhythm, aiming to establish the subtle relationship of creating dialogue between the wearer’s breathing and his body via IF. IF appearance design is inspired by shape of light and shadow in hollow patterns. Levels appeared when shadow moves and changes echoed with breathing air, creating a tranquil sense and naturally calming people down. ‘Breathing Dress’ offers choices of color lights for wearer to signal her current emotion state. For instance, when the wear was in bad mood, she could choose red color light to suggest her current emotion state to spectators without saying it. One unique feature of the “Breathing Dress” is real time monitoring. It is real-time sensing of thoracic and abdominal expansion and contraction produced when the wearer breathes with the help of thoracic and abdominal movement wave sensor through which respiration signals were obtained as input data and were entered into the electronic system of “Breathing Dress”. According to both the design concept and design inspiration, the specific setting of the corresponding output presentation was the LED display that had the same shading gradient cycle as respiratory frequency and depth. The LED came on gradually when the wearer was inhaling; the deeper the wearer inhaled, the brighter the LED. Likewise, the LED gradually went off when the wearer was exhaling; the weaker the breath, the darker the LED. The cycle was a breath. In this mode, LED changes were controlled by the breath of the wearer. Another unique feature of the “Breathing Dress” is emotional state recognition which is to give identification responses according to the respiratory wave status of wearer within a set period of time, i.e., taking records of respiration signal sensed by the thoracic and abdominal respiratory movement wave sensor in a set period of time as the input data to be entered into the electronic system of “Breathing Dress”. The specific setting of corresponding output presentation is an extraction on the basis of the models of emotional recognition classification combined with features of physiological signals. For example, when the wearer’s respiratory status showed no obvious fluctuations and was maintained at normal breathing rate and waveform in the set period of time, the emotion was identified as being in a positive state, and LED would remain in the mode 1 presentation form. On the other hand, when the respiratory status of the wearer showed obvious fluctuations in the set time period, with the respiratory rate accelerated and respiratory waveform went dramatically up and down for instance, the emotion was identified as being in a negative state, and the LED would change its presentation form from relatively regular changes into irregular flashes to reflect the disordered breathing and unstable emotional state of the wearer.
http://www.sparkawards.com/galleries/index.cfm?entry=3636
Smart and Interactive Textiles
Conductivity, Power Sources, Monitoring and Health, Communication
and Interaction, Fashion, Soft Interfaces, The Interactive
Future
This chapter examines the exciting developments in Interactive Textiles, and contains sections on Power Sources, Soft Interfaces, Fashion, Communication and Monitoring.
Interactive Textiles
scent dress
Dr. Jenny Tillotson constructed this scent dress
to mimic the body’s circulation system. An interactive fabric emits a
selection of scents depending on your mood to create a personal “smell
bubble.” Probably not the most stealth of outfits.
The Bubble mood-sensing dress
Just the idea of slipping into such a tasteful bubble dress from Philips called SKIN, will rejuvenate you (of course, only if you're at home and then plan to adventure into it). It’s a mood reading dress, which glows with lighting effects and blows with bubbles in response to the user's emotional state. The emotion sensors here lay embedded into the inner layer of the dress. The outer layer then, changes color in response to your mood. It works by monitoring physical changes associated with different emotions. Emotions like stress, arousal or anxiety will cause the dress to change its color and pattern according to the intensity of the emotion.
This chapter examines the exciting developments in Interactive Textiles, and contains sections on Power Sources, Soft Interfaces, Fashion, Communication and Monitoring.
Interactive Textiles
scent dress
The Bubble mood-sensing dress
New Properties and Functions
Through fibre engineering and highly advanced finishing treatments,
natural and synthetic materials can be produced with sophisticated
functions, combining aesthetics with high performance. Protective
Properties considers fabric and fibre qualities that
protect the wearer against damage from the external environment.
Signalling Textiles is a new section looking
at developments in fibre-optics, reflective textiles, phosphorescence
and colour change. Well Being Factors considers
the wide range of ‘caring’ and therapeutic effects
which textiles can offer, including the newer areas of cosmetic
and medical benefits.
Protective Properties
Ultraviolet Protection, Fire and Spark Resistance, Impact Resistance, Weatherproof Treatments, Moisture Management, Thermal Regulation, Buoyancy and Inflatable Textiles, Antistatic and Electromagnetic Protection.
Signalling Textiles
Reflective Textiles, Phosphorescence, Fibre-optics, Chromatic Properties
Well-being Factors
Easy-care, Comfort and Ease, Aromatic Agents, Antibacterial Properties, Anti-allergenic Properties, Health and Cosmetic Benefits, Biomimetics
Protective Properties
Ultraviolet Protection, Fire and Spark Resistance, Impact Resistance, Weatherproof Treatments, Moisture Management, Thermal Regulation, Buoyancy and Inflatable Textiles, Antistatic and Electromagnetic Protection.
Signalling Textiles
Reflective Textiles, Phosphorescence, Fibre-optics, Chromatic Properties
Well-being Factors
Easy-care, Comfort and Ease, Aromatic Agents, Antibacterial Properties, Anti-allergenic Properties, Health and Cosmetic Benefits, Biomimetics
Man-made Synthetic Polymers, Bio-fibres, Nano-technology
Man-made Synthetic Polymers
Scientists have used biosynthetic muscle fibers to observe the changes that polymers exhibit when subjected to mechanical stress.
scientists, as a result of extensive research, were able to replicate naturally occurring animal and plant fibers by creating fibers from synthetic chemicals. In the literature, it is often noted that there are three kinds of man-made fibers: those made by “transformation of natural polymers” (also called regenerated cellulosics), those made from synthetic polymers and those made from inorganic materials (These include the fibers made of glass, metal, ceramics and carbon.) But by far the largest group of man made synthetic fibers being produced today are made from synthetic polymers, so we’ll concentrate on those in this post.
Stemergy bio-fiber is focused on producing and supplying renewable bio-fibres - derived from annual stem fiber plants such as flax and hemp – to the expanding global bio-fiber marketplace.The demand for renewable bio-fibers is quickly accelerating as they become the material of choice for a broad range of applications. In the era of rising fossil fuel and energy prices, using annual plants such as hemp and flax that convert solar energy and green house gases to produce useful renewable bio-fiber materials for manufacturing makes good economic and environmental sense.
Nanotechnology (sometimes shortened to "nanotech") is the manipulation of matter on an atomic and molecular scale. Generally, nanotechnology works with materials, devices, and other structures with at least one dimension sized from 1 to 100 nanometres. Quantum mechanical effects are important at this quantum-realm scale.
scientists, as a result of extensive research, were able to replicate naturally occurring animal and plant fibers by creating fibers from synthetic chemicals. In the literature, it is often noted that there are three kinds of man-made fibers: those made by “transformation of natural polymers” (also called regenerated cellulosics), those made from synthetic polymers and those made from inorganic materials (These include the fibers made of glass, metal, ceramics and carbon.) But by far the largest group of man made synthetic fibers being produced today are made from synthetic polymers, so we’ll concentrate on those in this post.
Bio-fibres
Nano-technology
Peat, Alginate, Metal Fibres
Peat
Peat is an accumulation of partially decayed vegetable matter and result in a soft brown mass with carbon content of 50%. Peat forms in wetlands called peatlands. Peat deposits are the first stage in formation of coal deposits. Under pressure, water in the peat is forced out. Upon drying, peat can be used as a fuel, and is traditionally used for cooking and domestic heating in many countries including Ireland and Scotland, where stacks of drying peat dug from the bogs can still be seen in some rura areas.
Peat is also dug into soil to increase the latter's capacity to retain moisture and add nutrients. Peat fires are used to dry malted barley for use in Scotch whisky distillation. This gives Scotch its distinctive smoky flavor, often referred to as "peatiness" by Scotch afficianados. Moreover peat is used to purify air and remove odours. Bacteria incorporated into the peat, breakdown the odours and gases. By using peat it is possible to adjust the pH and nutrients to a suitable level for different bacteria.
Alginate
An alginate dressing is a natural wound dressing derived from different types of algae and seaweeds. These type of dressings are best used on wounds that have a large amount of exudate. They may be use on full-thickness burns, surgical wounds, split-thickness graft donor sites, Mohs surgery defects, refractory decubiti, and chronic ulcers. They can also be applied onto dry wounds after normal saline is first applied to the site of application.
Metal Fibres
The most common uses for metallic fibers is upholstery fabric and textiles such as lamé and brocade. Many people also use metallic fibers in weaving and needlepoint. Increasingly common today are metaillic fibers in clothing, anything from party and evening wear to club clothing, cold weather and survival clothing, and everyday wear. Metallic yarns are woven, braided, and knit into many fashionable fabrics and trims. For additional variety, metallic yarns are twisted with other fibers such as wool, nylon, cotton, and synthetic blends to produce yarns which add novelty effects to the end cloth or trim.[8] Stainless steel and other metal fibers are used in communication lines such as phone lines and cable television lines. Stainless steel fibers are also used in carpets. They are dispersed throughout the carpet with other fibers so they are not detected. The presence of the fibers helps to conduct electricity so that the static shock is reduced. These types of carpets are often used in computer-use areas where the chance of producing static is much greater. Other uses include tire cord, missile nose cones, work clothing such as protective suits, space suits, and cut resistant gloves for butchers and other people working near bladed or dangerous machinery.
Non-traditional Fibre Sources
Non-traditional Fibre Sources：Bast Fibres, Hemp, Leaf Fibres, Seed Hair Fibres, Peat, Alginate, Metal Fibres, Paper, Man-made Synthetic Polymers, Bio-fibres and Nano-technology.
Bast fibres
Most of the technically important bast fibres are obtained from herbs cultivated in agriculture, as for instance flax, hemp, or ramie, but also bast fibres from wild plants.
Often bast fibres have higher tensile strength than other kinds, and are used in high-quality textiles (sometimes in blends with cotton or synthetic fibres), ropes, yarn, paper, composite materials and burlap.
Hemp
Hemp fiber was widely used throughout history. Items ranging from rope, to fabrics, to industrial materials were made from hemp fiber. Hemp was often used to make sail, and the word canvas derives from cannabis.Today, a modest hemp fabric industry exists, and hemp fibers can be used in clothing. Pure hemp has a texture similar to linen.
Leaf Fibres
The second section covers developments in fibres such as hemp, nettle and the very directional bio fibres. New processing technology can allow the previously unusable to be manufactured into a commercial fibre, and the specific features of unusual fibres can be used to satisfy the more particular demands of niche markets.
H&M on Sustainable Fashion
H&M offers sustainability and fashion, not one or the other. Watch Ann-Sofie Johansson, Head of Design at H&M and Helena Helmersson, Head of Sustainability at H&M talk more about fashion and sustainability.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9nDkoKpIys
The Swedes at H&M have been hard at work and after having been pinned down by Greenpeace for the toxic chemicals in their clothing, they are stepping into fall with a new, sustainable collection.
Every piece in the new Conscious Collection is made of more sustainable materials, from organic cotton or linen to recycled wool and organic hemp.
The silhouette is feminine and the pieces are luxuriously embellished, from the embroidered wool coats to the prettiest lace blouse, as well as floral print dresses and shoes.
There are also some exclusive home decor pieces made from more sustainable materials, including a printed throw and pillows.
The fall lineup takes inspiration from the “sweet romance of Swedish folklore,” according to Ann-Sofie Johansson, head of design at H&M. “The silhouette is feminine and the pieces are luxuriously embellished,” she says.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9nDkoKpIys
The Swedes at H&M have been hard at work and after having been pinned down by Greenpeace for the toxic chemicals in their clothing, they are stepping into fall with a new, sustainable collection.
Every piece in the new Conscious Collection is made of more sustainable materials, from organic cotton or linen to recycled wool and organic hemp.
The silhouette is feminine and the pieces are luxuriously embellished, from the embroidered wool coats to the prettiest lace blouse, as well as floral print dresses and shoes.
There are also some exclusive home decor pieces made from more sustainable materials, including a printed throw and pillows.
The fall lineup takes inspiration from the “sweet romance of Swedish folklore,” according to Ann-Sofie Johansson, head of design at H&M. “The silhouette is feminine and the pieces are luxuriously embellished,” she says.
Books about Textile Innivation
There are following three books recommended, each providing a different perspective, each inspiring in a unique way.
Extreme Textiles
This book is so beautiful you will surely want it for your coffee table!
The front cover has the words “Extreme Textiles” punched out of thick
cover stock and the void is backed with a sheet of sail cloth. And the
inside is equally delectable with more than 200 images of radical
applications ranging from racing sails to aerospace garments.
Included are six essays by specialists in the field of architecture,
design and textile engineering, showing us how textiles have and will
continue to create the cutting edge of design and engineering.
These six essays focus on unique functional properties; lighter, faster, stronger, etc. They feature case studies showing how textiles are changing the design of categories such as sailing and military protective garments. This book was published by Princeton Architectural Press.
Techno Textiles: Revolutionary Fabrics for Fashion and Design
By Sarah Braddock and Marie O’Mahony. This book is a slightly smaller book which provides an overview of contemporary
textile design and innovation. The newest textiles, especially those
from Great Britain and Japan, are the fusion of art, design, engineering
and science; technology meets the personal expression of an individual
artist. While Extreme Textiles focuses on performance and gives a nod to
aesthetics, Techno Textiles has reversed the priorities. The textiles
here are far more decorative, more flamboyantly dimensional, and far
more colorful. Originally published in 1999, Thames & Hudson
recently re-released this title as the interest in materials for design,
fashion, art and architecture continues to grow.
Textile Innovation: Traditional, Modern and Smart Textiles
By Ros Hibbert. This is a smaller volume than the other two, containing
only 90 pages which are spiral bound. This black and white printed
edition reads much like collegiate course required reading – the sort of
thing your very academic professor puts together – but what a fabulous
resource! In many ways, it is the most technically useful of the three,
concerning itself more with specific facts about fibers and fabrics than
their aesthetics or their influence. It speaks to the technology of a
material more than the culture created by it.
Extreme Textiles
These six essays focus on unique functional properties; lighter, faster, stronger, etc. They feature case studies showing how textiles are changing the design of categories such as sailing and military protective garments. This book was published by Princeton Architectural Press.
Techno Textiles: Revolutionary Fabrics for Fashion and Design
Textile Innovation: Traditional, Modern and Smart Textiles
Friday 4 January 2013
Sustainable Textiles
SUSTAINABILITY IN TEXTILES
Sustainability issues permeate everything we do. They influence our own internal 'housekeeping' and day to day internal activities in the studio, while we encourage, inform and assist our clients to act in a socially, morally and environmentally correct manner. Sustainability is also a major feature of Ros Hibbert's writing for WGSN. Ros examines how environmental issues impact on the world of textiles, denim and jeanswear, the problems raised when putting them into practice and pathways for positive progression.
LINE is a specialised consultancy service to the textile industry. Based in London, our small but knowlegable and expert team offer services tailored to the individual needs of our clients, to inform, inspire and innovate.
http://www.lineconsultants.com
Lecture Silk
Silk
This protein based animal fibre is known for its aesthetic appeal and luxurious qualities.
Genetic manipulation can create finer and longer fibres, and inbuilt colour.
Wild silk from South Africa provides a sustainable income for rural populations.
Strong fine silk fibres are used in the medical world, cosmetic products, paper making, insulation and thermal underwear.
Silk is a natural protein fibre, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The protein fibre of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoons. The best-known type of silk is obtained from the cocoons of the larvae of the mulberry silkworm Bombyx mori reared in captivity. The shimmering appearance of silk is due to the triangular prism-like structure of the silk fibre, which allows silk cloth to refract incoming light at different angles, thus producing different colors.
Pure silk
This protein based animal fibre is known for its aesthetic appeal and luxurious qualities.
Genetic manipulation can create finer and longer fibres, and inbuilt colour.
Wild silk from South Africa provides a sustainable income for rural populations.
Strong fine silk fibres are used in the medical world, cosmetic products, paper making, insulation and thermal underwear.
Silk is a natural protein fibre, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The protein fibre of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoons. The best-known type of silk is obtained from the cocoons of the larvae of the mulberry silkworm Bombyx mori reared in captivity. The shimmering appearance of silk is due to the triangular prism-like structure of the silk fibre, which allows silk cloth to refract incoming light at different angles, thus producing different colors.
Lecture Luxury Hair Fibres
Luxury Hair Fibres
The most expensive and highly prized fibres in the textile world are obtained from animals living in cold climates,
These hollow hair fibres are excellent thermal insulators and have a soft handle.
Naturally gathered moult hair from farmed fox and mink can be spun and used for excusive knitted, woven or felt products.
Muskox, opussum, rabbit, camel, vicuna and cashmere kel goats all supply luxury fibre.
Winter 2012 “Lusso Luminoso” collection by Gasparre Cashmere which never ceases to baffle us with its uncompromisable quality pieces made of butter feather-light soft pure white cashmere from the Kel goat, only found in remote high altitude regions of Central Asia.
The most expensive and highly prized fibres in the textile world are obtained from animals living in cold climates,
These hollow hair fibres are excellent thermal insulators and have a soft handle.
Naturally gathered moult hair from farmed fox and mink can be spun and used for excusive knitted, woven or felt products.
Muskox, opussum, rabbit, camel, vicuna and cashmere kel goats all supply luxury fibre.
Winter 2012 “Lusso Luminoso” collection by Gasparre Cashmere which never ceases to baffle us with its uncompromisable quality pieces made of butter feather-light soft pure white cashmere from the Kel goat, only found in remote high altitude regions of Central Asia.
Lecture Comfort and ease
Comfort and ease
Comfort, fit, ease of movement and crease recovery are imparted by stretch fibres.
Lycra & Dow XLA are branded elastic fibres.
Mechanical crimped yarns from syntjetic fibres provide a gentier comfort stretch.
Power stretch for sportswear assists performance.
Medical applications include assisting blood flow and reducing burn scarring.
Comfort, fit, ease of movement and crease recovery are imparted by stretch fibres.
Lycra & Dow XLA are branded elastic fibres.
Mechanical crimped yarns from syntjetic fibres provide a gentier comfort stretch.
Power stretch for sportswear assists performance.
Medical applications include assisting blood flow and reducing burn scarring.
Comfort and ease are the keys to senior clothing.
Comfort and adaptive clothes first made their appearance in nursing homes. Caregivers found it helpful when dressing someone who is bedridden or uses a wheelchair. These outfits are also great for people in the nursing home for rehab – from a stroke or broken hip. They’re easier for staff to dress residents quickly. They’re also the perfect clothing for seniors to pull on or up when they’re first learning to care for themselves again after an illness or injury. Now the trend has branched out to assisted living and memory care facilities as well.
http://www.sassyscrubs.com/blog/2012/04/19/comfort-and-ease-are-the-keys-to-senior-clothing/
Lecture Polyamide
Polyamide
This oil-based synthetic fiber is produced from oil, a finite resource. It is very strong, resists water and tear, and blends well with other fibers.
Polyamide can be engineered to suit specific purposes, such as wicking properties for underwear and active sports, and UV resisance.
Branded Cordura & Keviar fibres have excellent abrasion resistance, durability and high tensile strenghth.
A polyamide is a polymer containing monomers of amides joined by peptide bonds. They can occur both naturally and artificially, examples being proteins, such as wool and silk, and can be made artificially through step-growth polymerization or solid-phase synthesis, examples being nylons, aramids, and sodium poly. Polyamides are commonly used in textiles, automotives, carpet and sportswear due to their extreme durability and strength.
100% polyamide is high-tenacity, durable, with the effect of twill in both face and back sides. This kind of fabric is suitable for sportswear, down-resistant garments and apparel. Fabric printing or coating can be customized. Breathable, anti-moisture if coated bounded or laminated.
Polyamide can be engineered to suit specific purposes, such as wicking properties for underwear and active sports, and UV resisance.
Branded Cordura & Keviar fibres have excellent abrasion resistance, durability and high tensile strenghth.
A polyamide is a polymer containing monomers of amides joined by peptide bonds. They can occur both naturally and artificially, examples being proteins, such as wool and silk, and can be made artificially through step-growth polymerization or solid-phase synthesis, examples being nylons, aramids, and sodium poly. Polyamides are commonly used in textiles, automotives, carpet and sportswear due to their extreme durability and strength.
100% polyamide is high-tenacity, durable, with the effect of twill in both face and back sides. This kind of fabric is suitable for sportswear, down-resistant garments and apparel. Fabric printing or coating can be customized. Breathable, anti-moisture if coated bounded or laminated.
Lecture Polyester
Polyester
The worlds most extensively used synthetic fibre, polyester offers a wide range of founction and performance factors.
Heat setting allows pleats and shapes to be formed and permanently set.
Recycling is possible from polyester water bottles.
Fabrics can be laser cut and welded.
Microfibres are superfine and sophisticated.
Laser cutted dress
Fabrics woven or knitted from polyester thread or yarn are used extensively in apparel and home furnishings, from shirts and pants to jackets and hats, bed sheets, blankets, upholstered furniture and computer mouse mats. Industrial polyester fibers, yarns and ropes are used in tyre reinforcements, fabrics for conveyor belts, safety belts, coated fabrics and plastic reinforcements with high-energy absorption. Polyester fiber is used as cushioning and insulating material in pillows, comforters and upholstery padding.
Polyester yarn
The worlds most extensively used synthetic fibre, polyester offers a wide range of founction and performance factors.
Heat setting allows pleats and shapes to be formed and permanently set.
Recycling is possible from polyester water bottles.
Fabrics can be laser cut and welded.
Microfibres are superfine and sophisticated.
Fabrics woven or knitted from polyester thread or yarn are used extensively in apparel and home furnishings, from shirts and pants to jackets and hats, bed sheets, blankets, upholstered furniture and computer mouse mats. Industrial polyester fibers, yarns and ropes are used in tyre reinforcements, fabrics for conveyor belts, safety belts, coated fabrics and plastic reinforcements with high-energy absorption. Polyester fiber is used as cushioning and insulating material in pillows, comforters and upholstery padding.
Lecture Cellulosics
Man-made cellulosics
Produced from natural cellulosic sources of wood pulp, cotton, linen and bamboo.
Textiles are fluid and soft to handle, with strong wet strength, absorbency and breathability.
Tencel is a branded cellulose fibre produced in a closed loop system with improved environmental performance.
Lyocell is used in woven and knitted forms and as a non-woven for medical applications and hospital textiles.
Cellulosic man-made fibers hold a formidable position of being the first fibers to be manufactured synthetically by humans.
Cellulosic man-made fibers are gradually being looked upon as ideal substitutes for cotton, resulting from decline in cotton production world over, shrinking manufacturer margins and sharp rise in cotton prices.
According to the preview of 'The Fiber Year 2012' report to bepublished by Lenzing Group and The Fiber Year Consulting in May, the latest estimation about the 2011 world fiber usage amoints to more than 51 million tons of manmade fibers and 30 million tones of nature fibers.
Lenzing Group notes that manmade cellulose fibers combine the absorbency of all cellulose fibers and technical advantages of industrial manmade fibers.
Textiles are fluid and soft to handle, with strong wet strength, absorbency and breathability.
Tencel is a branded cellulose fibre produced in a closed loop system with improved environmental performance.
Lyocell is used in woven and knitted forms and as a non-woven for medical applications and hospital textiles.
Cellulosic man-made fibers hold a formidable position of being the first fibers to be manufactured synthetically by humans.
Cellulosic man-made fibers are gradually being looked upon as ideal substitutes for cotton, resulting from decline in cotton production world over, shrinking manufacturer margins and sharp rise in cotton prices.
According to the preview of 'The Fiber Year 2012' report to bepublished by Lenzing Group and The Fiber Year Consulting in May, the latest estimation about the 2011 world fiber usage amoints to more than 51 million tons of manmade fibers and 30 million tones of nature fibers.
Lenzing Group notes that manmade cellulose fibers combine the absorbency of all cellulose fibers and technical advantages of industrial manmade fibers.
Lecture Wool
Wool
Wool is the textile fiber obtained from sheep and certain other animals. The original high performance fibre, wool has inbuilt thermal qualities, is waterproof, has UV resistance, fire protection and elastcity properties.
Sportswear is a mix of metric wool with polyester for active sports clothing.
100% machine, washable wool is now avaialable.
Wool is a regeneratable resource, can be produced organically and recycled.
Wool has several qualities that distinguish it from hair or fur: it is crimped, it is elastic, and it grows in staples. In the U.S. the term wool is usually restricted to describing the fibrous protein derived from the specialized skin cells called follicles in sheep, although in the U.K. it may be used of any long curling fiber such as wood wool, wire wool.
The quality of wool is determined by its fiber diameter, crimp, yield, color, and staple strength. Fiber diameter is the single most important wool characteristic determining quality and price.
Global wool production is approximately 1.3 million tonnes per year. Organic wool is becoming more and more popular. It is becoming easier to find in clothing and other products, but these products often carry a higher price. Wool is environmentally preferable as a material for carpets.
Sportswear is a mix of metric wool with polyester for active sports clothing.
100% machine, washable wool is now avaialable.
Wool is a regeneratable resource, can be produced organically and recycled.
Wool has several qualities that distinguish it from hair or fur: it is crimped, it is elastic, and it grows in staples. In the U.S. the term wool is usually restricted to describing the fibrous protein derived from the specialized skin cells called follicles in sheep, although in the U.K. it may be used of any long curling fiber such as wood wool, wire wool.
The quality of wool is determined by its fiber diameter, crimp, yield, color, and staple strength. Fiber diameter is the single most important wool characteristic determining quality and price.
Global wool production is approximately 1.3 million tonnes per year. Organic wool is becoming more and more popular. It is becoming easier to find in clothing and other products, but these products often carry a higher price. Wool is environmentally preferable as a material for carpets.
Lecture Flax
Flax
Flax is grown for its use as an edible oil, as a nutritional supplement,
and as an ingredient in many wood finishing products. Flax is also
grown as an ornamental plant in gardens. Flax fibers are used to make
linen. The Latin species name usitatissimum means most useful, pointing
to the several traditional uses of the plant and their importance for
human life.
This very ancient raw material is known as linen, and offers a wide variety of end uses and products.
In addition to clothing textiles, linen is used in automotive, construction, domestic and interior textile areas.
Enzyme use has improved environmental aspects of production.
Combinations with stretch fibres, silk, viscose and characteristics, plus reducing creasing problems.
Linen
Linen is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant, Linum usitatissimum. Linen is labor-intensive to manufacture, but when it is made into garments, it is valued for its exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather.
Linen fabric feels cool to the touch. It is smooth, making the finished
fabric lint-free, and gets softer the more it is washed. However,
constant creasing in the same place in sharp folds will tend to break
the linen threads. This wear can show up in collars, hems, and any area
that is iron creased during laundering. Linen has poor elasticity and
does not spring back readily, explaining why it wrinkles so easily.
In addition to clothing textiles, linen is used in automotive, construction, domestic and interior textile areas.
Enzyme use has improved environmental aspects of production.
Combinations with stretch fibres, silk, viscose and characteristics, plus reducing creasing problems.
Linen
Linen is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant, Linum usitatissimum. Linen is labor-intensive to manufacture, but when it is made into garments, it is valued for its exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather.
Types of cotton
There are four commercially-grown species of cotton:
-Gossypium hirsutum – upland cotton, native to Central America, Mexico, the Caribbean and southern Florida, (90% of world production)
-Gossypium barbadense – known as extra-long staple cotton, native to tropical South America (8% of world production)
-Gossypium arboreum – tree cotton, native to India and Pakistan (less than 2%)
Tree cotton is a shrub attaining heights of one to two metres. Its branches are covered with pubescence and are purple in colour. Stipules are present at the leaf base and they are linear to lanceolate in shape and sometimes falcate.
-Gossypium herbaceum – Levant cotton, native to southern Africa and the Arabian Peninsula (less than 2%)
-Gossypium hirsutum – upland cotton, native to Central America, Mexico, the Caribbean and southern Florida, (90% of world production)
-Gossypium barbadense – known as extra-long staple cotton, native to tropical South America (8% of world production)
-Gossypium arboreum – tree cotton, native to India and Pakistan (less than 2%)
Tree cotton is a shrub attaining heights of one to two metres. Its branches are covered with pubescence and are purple in colour. Stipules are present at the leaf base and they are linear to lanceolate in shape and sometimes falcate.
-Gossypium herbaceum – Levant cotton, native to southern Africa and the Arabian Peninsula (less than 2%)
Lecture Cotton
Textile Innovation
Lecture 1
– What is a Textile? Main commercial fibre types, yarn and fabric, manufacturing systems. (Material Sources/Textile Innovation)
In this course, we were introduced the basic information about textiles, including the main types of yarn and fabrics, how people use them in many field and the manufacturing systems.
Cotton
Sustanable production
Cotton provides about 45% of the world's fibre consumption, and is the worlds largest non food crop.
Conventional agriculture accounts for 25% of global insecticide use.
Organic cotton is becomming more widely available.
Naturally coloured cotton is a commercial product.
Cotton can be recycled and composted.
Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective capsule, around the seeds of cotton plants of the genus Gossypium. The fiber is almost pure cellulose. Under natural condition, the cotton balls will tend to increase the dispersion of the seeds.
The fiber is most often spun into yarn or thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile.
Cotton is the most widely used natural fiber cloth in clothing today.
The first chapter looks at new developments in Commercial Fibre Sources, such as cotton, wool and cellulosic fibres. It explores how the major textile fibres are developing, what they will be able to offer for future design and performance, and how man-made materials can be engineered to meet new consumer demands and environmental criteria.
Lecture 1
– What is a Textile? Main commercial fibre types, yarn and fabric, manufacturing systems. (Material Sources/Textile Innovation)
In this course, we were introduced the basic information about textiles, including the main types of yarn and fabrics, how people use them in many field and the manufacturing systems.
Cotton
Sustanable production
Cotton provides about 45% of the world's fibre consumption, and is the worlds largest non food crop.
Conventional agriculture accounts for 25% of global insecticide use.
Organic cotton is becomming more widely available.
Naturally coloured cotton is a commercial product.
Cotton can be recycled and composted.
Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective capsule, around the seeds of cotton plants of the genus Gossypium. The fiber is almost pure cellulose. Under natural condition, the cotton balls will tend to increase the dispersion of the seeds.
The fiber is most often spun into yarn or thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile.
Cotton is the most widely used natural fiber cloth in clothing today.
The first chapter looks at new developments in Commercial Fibre Sources, such as cotton, wool and cellulosic fibres. It explores how the major textile fibres are developing, what they will be able to offer for future design and performance, and how man-made materials can be engineered to meet new consumer demands and environmental criteria.
Stage 2 Territories of Practice
TEXTILES INNOVATION (Materials in Design)
Territories of Practice 2012
This option examines the global chain of textile production and its relationship to
design. It will enable you to identify the sequence and variety of technical
processes necessary to produce materials from fibre to finish. Both traditional
and innovative fibres will be discussed, along with their functions and properties
for areas including fashion, medical, agricultural, construction, sports and
interiors.
SESSIONS:
Lecture 1 – What is a Textile? Main commercial fibre types, yarn and fabric
manufacturing systems. (Material Sources/Textile Innovation)
Lecture 2 – Innovative fibre types, new materials & technology affecting design
and production variations. (eg Rapid Prototyping, Growing Materials etc.)
Lecture 3 – Characteristics of finishes and the creation of functionality in fabrics.
(Innovation in Finishing)
Lecture 4 - Sustainability issues relating to the materials industries and life-cycle
thinking. (Cradle to Cradle)
HAND-IN INFORMATION
The hand in date is TO BE CONFIRMED, but will most likely be in mid to late January
2013.
There are 4 main elements to your project assessment as follows:
1. Your research blog - a collection of work relating to all your self-initiated
research including information from books, journals, session notes and web
based sources... don't forget to reference everything as well as including
information from the lectures and your own notes and observations - the
information should be well organised and presented and act as a 'living
document' which can be added to over time, rather than a fixed chronological
resource.
2. Blog Presentation - Presentations (10 minutes each) in one session
3. Self Evaluation Form
4. Unit Feedback Form
Territories of Practice 2012
This option examines the global chain of textile production and its relationship to
design. It will enable you to identify the sequence and variety of technical
processes necessary to produce materials from fibre to finish. Both traditional
and innovative fibres will be discussed, along with their functions and properties
for areas including fashion, medical, agricultural, construction, sports and
interiors.
SESSIONS:
Lecture 1 – What is a Textile? Main commercial fibre types, yarn and fabric
manufacturing systems. (Material Sources/Textile Innovation)
Lecture 2 – Innovative fibre types, new materials & technology affecting design
and production variations. (eg Rapid Prototyping, Growing Materials etc.)
Lecture 3 – Characteristics of finishes and the creation of functionality in fabrics.
(Innovation in Finishing)
Lecture 4 - Sustainability issues relating to the materials industries and life-cycle
thinking. (Cradle to Cradle)
HAND-IN INFORMATION
The hand in date is TO BE CONFIRMED, but will most likely be in mid to late January
2013.
There are 4 main elements to your project assessment as follows:
1. Your research blog - a collection of work relating to all your self-initiated
research including information from books, journals, session notes and web
based sources... don't forget to reference everything as well as including
information from the lectures and your own notes and observations - the
information should be well organised and presented and act as a 'living
document' which can be added to over time, rather than a fixed chronological
resource.
2. Blog Presentation - Presentations (10 minutes each) in one session
3. Self Evaluation Form
4. Unit Feedback Form
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